Poking Around Canyon, Colorado for the Navajo Rug

Sometimes a song just happens to twang the heartstrings and worm its way into a lifetime, I suppose.  Navajo Rug’s been such a song for me.

I first heard the song in Austin, Texas, performed by Bill and Bonnie Hearne in some tiny, packed appearance of theirs in the mid-1980s.  I liked it so well I bought a tape.  Then, later I discovered the Tom Russell version and made a 90 minute tape with just that song on it, listening to it on road trips sometimes for several hours at a time until the tape wore out.

Almost a decade later I was headed through the Four Corners area toward Hovenweep and various ancient sites in southwestern Utah, but still in Colorado when a road-sign announced I was entering Canyon, Colorado.  I craned my neck watching for evidence of a burned down cafe in the weeds as I passed through.

But all the time I was in Utah over the next several days the Navajo Rug song and Canyon, Colorado were nagging at the back of my mind.  I didn’t even have the tape with me, so I sang it to myself and the truck.  Then, on the trip back I resolved to try to find out if the cafe ever existed, where it was, maybe even pick up some piece of broken melted glass or a spoon from the ruin.

I spent half a day in that village slowly driving back and forth along the grader ditch, getting out and trekking around possibilities, asking around among any residents I could approach without interrupting what they were doing.

I didn’t find it, didn’t find anyone in town who’d ever even heard the song.

But I did sit down in the only eating establishment open and order two eggs up on whiskey toast, home-fries on the side.

Sometimes that’s about the best a person can do. 

But it wasn’t the only time I’d found myself pursuing musical/lyrical craziness when location comspired with a song I remembered to distract me from a destination.  On more than one trip through Morenci and Clifton, AZ, I did a lot of asking trying to find someone who remembered who sang Open Pit Mine.

 

Not a soul even remembered ever hearing the song.

Old Jules

5 responses to “Poking Around Canyon, Colorado for the Navajo Rug

  1. It’s fun chasing musical/lyrical craziness, or finding a place that has a history that jumped out from the get-go. I’ve driven out of my way to go through towns that have a history such as that, or a place I heard about once in a song. It makes traveling even more fun. Collecting bits and pieces where possible, more so. I have an old rusty beer cap that a friend found in the vicinity of where Ed Abby once had his camper in Arches. I like thinking it might have belonged to him.

    I’ve been to Clifton and Morenci, but never heard that song before. No one sings hurt better than George.

  2. Hi Teresa Evangeline: Makes travel a lot more fun for me, also. Fun to think old Ed Abby dropped his beer caps on the ground where he was camped, too. I can’t help smiling about that one. Gracias, Jules

  3. locals generally don’t know shit and that’s a fact

  4. Jerry Jeff Walker did a version of navajo rug, I liked (~_~

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